Black Japanese cattle or ‘Wagyu’ are the most valuable beef cattle in the world. They are black cattle similar to Angus, except that they are horned and are much lighter in the rump and legs than Angus.
History
Wagyu were originally draft animals used in cultivation, so they were selected for physical endurance. This selection favoured animals with more intra-muscular fat cells, or marbling, which provided a readily available energy source. Wagyu were probably infused with British and European breeds in the late 1800s. The government closed the breed to outside lines in 1910, although regional isolation had produced a number of different lines with varying conformation.
There are three major black strains in Japan that evolved due to regional geographic isolation. The Tajiri or Tajima line from the Hyogo Prefecture is famous for its good temperament, finely marbled beef, smaller frame and low growth rates. The Fujiyoshi or Shimane line from the Okayama Prefecture has good growth rates, quiet temperament and high fertility. The Tottori or Kedaka line from the Tottori Prefecture is characterised by good growth, larger frame type, overall balance and fine, loose skin.
Genetics
In the last 50 years Wagyu breeders in Japan have conducted extensive progeny testing to improve the carcass genetics of their cattle. Today they are using modern genetics evaluation techniques and showing strong upward genetic trends for marbling and carcass yield in the Wagyu. It is believed that there are a small number of genes that have a major effect on marbling. One such gene is the Thyroglobulin gene on chromosome 14 of the Bovine gene map. Original research on this gene was conducted by CSIRO in Australia on Wagyu cross cattle.
Wagyu strengths
It is claimed that Wagyu cattle have superior ‘beef conversion’, with the ability to marble on both grain and pasture feeding. Wagyu cattle are very fertile, they have low birth weights for easy calving and high growth rates for maximum returns.
In Australia, Wagyu cross steers are in demand at two to three times the price obtained for all other breeds. Second cross and pure steers are worth considerably more.
Wagyu meat
Wagyu meat is widely renowned for its ‘melt in your mouth’ texture and flavour. Marbling is the most reliable component of meat taste and tenderness. Japanese consumers recognise this and are prepared to pay a premium for highly marbled meat. Kobe beef, as Wagyu meat is known, sells for the highest prices in the world, both in Japanese restaurants and in Japanese butcher shops and supermarkets. An average piece of steak of around 300g, extra value trimmed by the butcher, costs about A$120. The same steak would cost around A$250 in a Tokyo restaurant.
Further information
Kobe beef is available at top Australian restaurants. Although it is very expensive, it has a wonderful flavour and is worth trying.
